Due to the current freezing temperatures, Battersea Dogs & Cats Home is renewing an appeal made last year for funds to buy specialist Vetbed material to keep the animals in the Home warm over winter months. The world famous Home is urgently re-launching this appeal, as the cold weather grips the Capital, so that every dog and cat has access to a cosy, comfortable bed. The Home is urging its generous supporters to call to donate to this appeal on 0870 890 0000.

Felicity Brotherton, Kennel Supervisor at Battersea Dogs & Cats Home said,

“During these very cold nights, blankets are not as warm or as durable as Vetbed material. Dogs can rip up and chew traditional blankets while the Vetbed is designed and tested for toughness for use with animals.”

“Vetbed also has environmental benefits. Here at the Home, we currently use over 1,000 blankets a day and maintaining a constant clean supply is a huge task. The material is designed so as not to allow fluid to penetrate the fibres, so it does not need to be washed on as high a temperature.”

Fiona Healey-Hutchinson, Director of Fundraising at Battersea Dogs & Cats Home, said;

“We are so grateful to all the generous people who have contributed to this appeal so far, but we still need to raise more funds to buy enough material for every animal in the Home to have a Vetbed. Just £5 will buy enough Vetbed material to keep five animals warm and comfortable for the duration of their stay with us, and each piece of material will last for the whole year. Any contribution will make a huge difference to the dogs and cats in our care.”

To make a donation, please call the Home’s Fundraising team on 0870 890 0000 or send in a cheque, made payable to Battersea Dogs & Cats Home and marked “Vetbed appeal,” to the Fundraising Department, Battersea Dogs & Cats Home, 4 Battersea Park Road, London SW8 4AA.

Play is an extremely important part of your dogs’ development.

Playing provides physical exercise, mental stimulation which benefits may aspects of your dogs’ life and helps strengthen the bond between dog and owner.

Puppies begin to play with each other and their mother at about four weeks old. These games help the puppy to develop physically by developing their muscles and coordination, and mentally by teaching all the skills they need to become a balanced and social dog. The mental skills learned by a puppy from their mother and litter mates are how to inhibit bite, hunting skills, shaking and killing prey and communal behaviour.

Puppies learn to play bow to other puppies to invite them to play and you can also see this in older dogs. Puppies also learn through play how to play the dominant / submissive role in their pack and is a good indicator of which dogs are more submissive and which are more dominant (even if it will not be relevant as there will be no future pack once the puppies are separated into separate homes). When dogs play this game you will often see a more dominant dog fall to the ground and roll on its back in a submissive position and this is all part of practising the behaviour and is a great game when the dog can pounce back up again and run away with the prized toy to initiate a chase.

Learning communal behaviour through play forms social bonds and moulds adult behaviour. A puppy who has learnt how to play well from an early age is more likely to be a good communicator, whereas a puppy who has not played, been isolated from other dogs/littermates and/or humans will not have learned bite inhibition, how to communicate and will be more likely to develop fearful and aggressive tendencies to control it’s surroundings in the future.

Play stimulates the dog to be inventive by problem solving and helps the brain develop.
It also teaches action patterns (how to carry out a sequence of events), such as back tracking to find a hidden object. Playing games lets your dog explore using all senses such as sights, smell, touch and listening which helps with socialisation. Your dog will be less fearful and anxious and more confident if he has learnt under safe conditions to play and explore other dogs, humans and objects.

Dogs are natural predators and it will benefit your dog or puppy greatly to include the natural behaviour of hunting, chasing, chewing, retrieving, digging, shaking prey and barking into these games.

In the past we have been discouraged to play games such as tug-of-war with our dogs as we were told it would make our dogs more dominant towards us, especially if they win.
This has since been proven to be a great game, but you must make sure your dog knows the release command.
If we play games such as tug it is a game that uses natural predatory behaviour. Using these natural behaviours as part of a game deflects natural aggression and teaches cooperative behaviour.
NB. * It is important to remember not to let the dog become over-excited or mouth at hands and clothes. If this happens the game must end immediately – it is important to teach the rules of the game to your dog first and to ensure the dog knows the release command*

If you do not allow your dog to use his predatory behaviours in games like these the dog will be more likely to make up his own game using his predatory skills, such as stalking and killing your shoes or digging your flowerbeds.

Play is such a great mental stimulator that it has been shown that the brain deteriorates slower in a dog who has lots of mental games that one that does not, and will be healthier in the long term.

You can use play as a teaching tool also by teaching your dog retrieve, recall, carrying objects and also basic obedience commands. Clicker training and lure and reward are great tools to teach the required actions, you can also teach sequence behaviour with these methods by teaching your dog to do a little more each time to receive his reward until the desired action has been taught.
Always make sure play is fun and rewarding and never punish for the wrong behaviour as your dog will not want to play anymore and you will loose a valuable learning tool.

There are lots of great toys on the market for our dogs which stimulate physical exercise and mental problem solving skills.
These toys include Frisbees for chasing – this uses sight tracking skills and chase and retrieve. My dog likes the sight tracking and chasing but the retrieve is not quite there yet as he prefers the ‘keep away’ game more!

Kong’s are fantastic strong rubber toys with a hollow centre that can be stuffed with treat such as dog biscuits, cheese, chicken and peanut butter (the smellier the better to keep him interested). Kong’s are especially useful if you are leaving the dog for a few hours as it will keep him busy trying to get the treats out of the centre, and he can chew the rubber Kong itself to relieve stress and boredom.

Buster cubes are hard plastic cubes which have a hollow centre or sometimes a maze like centre which treats can be dropped into. The dog can smell the treats and has to learn to push the cube onto each side to be able to receive his treat reward.

Ropes are good to keep teeth clean and allow your dog to chew the correct object. I have always taught dogs to chew the ropes instead of the sofa and it has saved me a lot of money!
Ropes are also great for chasing and killing, if you play tug-of-war with your dog you can both shake and ‘kill’ the prey and is a great bond builder between you and your dog. Make sure however that your dog learns the release command and regularly use the command in the middle of the game with a treat reward to ensure it stays safe and fun.

Hide and seek is a fun way to use your dogs senses to the max. You can hide yourself in the house or outside and shout your dogs’ name. When he hears his name being called he should listen, look and smell his way towards you. When he finds you give him really exited vocal praise and a reward. This will also make him more attentive towards you.

Digging can be a major problem, especially if you have beautiful flower beds. Dogs love to dig and it is a great exploration game. Dogs also dig to find a cool spot to lie in when it is hot weather. I have previously made the mistake of cementing my whole garden due to muddy paw prints all over the house. Since then I have learned how important it is to allow dogs to exercise their natural behaviours and as with hard floored yards, a sandpit can be provided to allow your dog to dig in the correct place. It is great fun to hide toys in the sandpit which your dog will love finding.

Retrieving games are great fun, energy burning, uses visible tracking and also reinforces the recall. Gun dogs are usually the most natural retrievers but some do not seem to use this natural ability. With gentle fun training including positive reinforcements most dogs will learn to love this game. Retrieving lets the dog chase and seek out the ball but can be made even more stimulating by throwing the ball into long grass or bushes so that he also has to use his sense of smell to find the ball.
If your dog enjoys the ‘keep away’ game of running off with the ball rather than bringing it back to you the best and most fun way to tackle this problem is to make it into a game and put it on cue. When your dog gets hold of the ball and does not show signs of bringing it back say ‘I’m gonna get YOU!’ in an exited voice and chase him. He will love the chase and want to keep trying to initiate it.
Keep saying ‘I’m gonna get YOU!’ and chase him a few times. When he tries it again simply ignore him and sit on the floor. He will should come to you and even poke you with the object to get you to chase him again. When he comes to you say ‘come’ and treat him. He will have to drop the ball for the treat.
Then play the game again, and then wait for him to come to you again to initiate the game. This way you can teach him the desired behaviour in a positive way and with no punishments.
When you start punishing your dog for the wrong action you are likely to link the punishment with the game and he will not respond to playing anymore in case he receives a punishment.

Bubble Busting!

The game I like to play is bubble busting. It is fun, cheap and can be played indoors on a wet day.
It is as easy as it sounds, you simply blow bubbles and the dog catches them.
This game makes the dog focus on the bubbles by sight tracking them and then he has to catch them with good timing and coordination. You can also make him use his sense of smell and taste by purchasing bacon flavoured bubbles which are available in most pet stores.
A variation on this is to place a bubble machine outdoors and let your dog chase away till his hearts content. It is a fantastic energy burner, takes almost no time to prepare and great fun for owner and dog.

Weaning puppies can be vaccinated with a modified live virus low passage high titer vaccine at 8 weeks of age, then every 3 to 4 weeks until 15 or 16 weeks. Puppies are initially protected through passive immunity derived from the mother. These maternal antibodies wear off before the puppy’s immune system is mature enough to fight off CPV2 infection.

Maternal antibodies also interfere with vaccination for CPV2 and can cause vaccine failure. Thus puppies are generally vaccinated in a series of shots, extending from the earliest time that the immunity derived from the mother wears off until after that passive immunity is definitely gone.

Older puppies (16 weeks or older) are given 3 vaccinations 3 to 4 weeks apart.

The duration of immunity of vaccines for CPV2 has been tested for all major vaccine manufacturers in the United States and has been found to be at least three years after the initial puppy series and a booster 1 year later.

A dog that successfully recovers from CPV2 sheds virus for a few days. Ongoing infection risk is primarily from faecal contamination of the environment due to the virus’s ability to survive many months in the environment. Neighbours and family members with dogs should be notified of infected animals so that they can ensure that their dogs are vaccinated or tested for immunity. Vaccine will take up to 2 weeks to reach effective levels of immunity, the contagious individual should remain in quarantine until other animals are protected.

Treatment

Survival rate depends on how quickly CPV is diagnosed, the age of the animal and how aggressive the treatment is. Treatment for severe cases that are not caught early usually involves extensive hospitalization, due to the severe dehydration and damage to the intestines and bone marrow. A CPV test should be given as early as possible if CPV is suspected in order to begin early treatment and increase survival rate if the disease is found.

Treatment ideally consists of crystalloid IV fluids and/or colloids, antinausea injections (antiemetics) such as metoclopramide, dolasetron, ondansetron and prochlorperazine, and antibiotic injections such as cefoxitin, metronidazole, timentin, or enrofloxacin.

IV fluids are administered and antinausea and antibiotic injections are given subcutaneously, intramuscularly, or intravenously. The fluids are typically a mix of a sterile, balanced electrolyte solution, with an appropriate amount of B-complex vitamins, dextrose and potassium chloride. Analgesic medications such as buprenorphine are also used to counteract the intestinal discomfort caused by frequent bouts of diarrhea.

In addition to fluids given to achieve adequate rehydration, each time the puppy vomits or has diarrhea in a significant quantity, an equal amount of fluid is administered intravenously. The fluid requirements of a patient are determined by their body weight, weight changes over time, degree of dehydration at presentation and surface area. The hydration status is originally determined by assessment of clinical factors like tacky mucous membranes, concentration of the urine, sunken eyes, poor skin elasticity and bloodtests.

A blood plasma transfusion from a donor dog that has already survived CPV is sometimes used to provide passive immunity to the sick dog. Some veterinarians keep these dogs on site, or have frozen serum available. There have been no controlled studies regarding this treatment.

Additionally, fresh frozen plasma and human albumin transfusions can help replace the extreme protein losses seen in severe cases and help assure adequate tissue healing.

Once the dog can keep fluids down, the IV fluids are gradually discontinued, and very bland food slowly introduced. Oral antibiotics are administered for a number of days depending on the white blood cell count and the patient’s ability to fight off secondary infection. A puppy with minimal symptoms can recover in 2 or 3 days if the IV fluids are begun as soon as symptoms are noticed and the CPV test confirms the diagnosis. However, even with hospitalization, there is no guarantee that the dog will survive.

Unconventional treatments

There is no specific antiviral treatment for CPV. However, there have been anecdotal reports of oseltamivir (Tamiflu) reducing disease severity and hospitalization time in canine parvovirus infection. The drug may limit the ability of the virus to invade the crypt cells of the small intestine and decrease gastrointestinal bacteria colonization and toxin production.

There is also anecdotal evidence suggesting that colloidal silver  is effective at treating CPV although currently regulatory authorities are discouraging its use due to potential toxicity issues and lack of demonstrated efficacy.

Lastly, recombinant feline interferon omega (rFeIFN-ω), produced in silkworm larvae using a baculovirus vector, has been demonstrated by multiple studies to be an effective treatment.

Understanding canine body language can greatly increase the chances of avoiding an attack

There are so many old wives tales related to dogs and dog behaviour I could fill a book. One day I might. Let’s look at some.

When a dog wags his tail, it means he’s happy.

Well, actually no. In fact it could mean he’s very, very angry.

A dog who yawns a lot is tired.

No again. It could signify a dog is highly anxious, nervous or agitated.

A dog who licks his lips is hungry.

Afraid not. Licking lips is a sign dogs give to show they are anxious or submissive.

So, even with just this small handful of examples we can see how easy it is to misread dog body language. The technical name for it is anthropomorphism, which means attributing human traits on a non human. It’s particularly common with dogs and we all do it. Even us dog trainers who really should know better!

Over the past 15 months, Britain has seen 3 dog attacks lead to the tragic and needless deaths of children. On top of that, we’ve seen other serious attacks reported on a frequent basis which have resulted in life changing injuries for some victims.

So what do we need to do to recognise a potential dog attack, either on us, our children or even by our own dogs on someone else?

Dogs rarely, if ever, attack for ‘no reason’. In the wake of an attack we will often hear terms such as ‘out of the blue’, ‘without warning’ or ‘came for no apparent reason’.

Well let’s establish one thing. Dogs do not think in human terms. Maybe we’d be better looking at it another way. Dogs very often attack for good reason in their minds. The problem is, what a dog views as a good reason to attack someone, we humans can never, ever justify.

Let’s look an example.

Dog A is lying close to his favourite. He’s been playing it with it all morning but now he’s gone to sleep.

Someone walks into the room and dog A wakes with a jump. He looks at the ‘intruder’ who he might never have seen before, pricks his ears up and moves closer to his toy. He wants to protect what he thinks is his property and he gives a ‘warning’ to the intruder that he’s staking his claim to his toy by putting his body between them and it.

The stranger, innocently bends down to stroke the dog and as quick as a flash receives a bite on the hand for their trouble.

10 Top Tips for Avoiding Dog Attack

1) Never, ever approach a dog unless its owner has said it’s ok to do so.

2) Be very wary of dogs near toys. Owners should always teach their dogs not to be protective or defensive over toys but it’s far better to always assume a dog will try and protect its toys or food. Put simply, don’t ever take the risk.

3) Be extra vigilant of dogs who have been woken up suddenly. Let sleeping dogs lie is sage advice.

4) Be aware of a dog’s potential to be defensive or territorial in their own home. It’s always a good idea to let strangers meet the dog outside if possible. Some dogs can be very territorial and approaching a dog who might see you as a threat to territory can sometimes lead to problems.

5) When approaching a dog, any dog, never bare down on them. Body language is something dogs are more attuned to than even us humans. Dogs can react badly to being stared at, leaned in on or if they see a hand coming down from above their head. Be aware of what life looks like when you are a dog who is constantly looking upwards at the world around them. Try and get down on their level with your body in a side on (non threatening position)

6) Never, ever, under any circumstances allow young children and dogs (of any type) to play alone together. Dogs and children are a great combination when properly supervised. Dogs and children unattended is a potential recipe for disaster. Take it from a dog trainer who has two dogs who are professionally disciplined. Even I, with fantastically well trained dogs would NEVER leave them unattended with children. The risks are too high. It is not possible to ever know for sure how dogs behave when we’re not there. Add to that the unpredictable element of an unsupervised child and it’s easy to see why accidents and even fatalities can occur.

7) As a dog owner, accept and respect other people’s right not to have your dog jump up them. Many people are fearful of dogs and phrases such as ‘He’s only playing, he won’t hurt you’ are meaningless and rude. Be aware, your dog only needs to be seen as a threat to someone for you to be in breach of the Dangerous Dogs Act. Yes, that is correct. Even if your Yorkshire Terrier jumps up a stranger who finds it a fearful experience, you could lose your dog. Respect non dog owners, they do not and should not ever have to be inconvenienced or made to feel uncomfortable because of something your dog does.

Dog owners must always ask themselves this question: Can I control my dog at any time either by physical restraint or with my voice? If you can’t honestly answer yes to either question you have a problem. Should your dog attack someone, it’s your fault. Should your dog run off and cause an accident, it’s your fault. Should your dog run off and be fatally injured, it’s your fault. Failing to be able to control your dog is nothing to be embarrassed about so seek help from an experienced dog trainer or behaviourist today. Do it today and don’t wait until an accident happens. Your dog is your responsibility and you should be able to control it in any or every possible circumstance.

9) Spend some time and effort learning about dog body language. Being able to recognise the tell tale signs of an upset, unhappy, agitated, aggressive, nervous, territorial or possessive dog are one the main contributing factors to avoiding dog attacks. So many owners believe they know what they need to know about canine behaviour and body language but in reality they are very often wide of the mark. Dogs, whilst fitting in and contributing hugely to the modern family unit are not human, do not think like humans and do not have a human value system that tells them it is NOT OK to attack a stranger for looking at their favourite toy. Be aware of how your dog thinks. You might be very, very surprised at what you find!

10) If you are a dog owner, you should learn and understand your obligations and responsibilities to your dog and to society according to the law. Dog ownership is a privilege that shouldn’t be taken for granted.

By following these simple tips we can all work together to wipe out dog attacks without wiping out dogs.

Pet owners are often surprised to learn that diabetes is not exclusive to humans. PDSA decided to take a look at what owners can do to help prevent and manage diabetes.

Dogs can suffer from diabetes too!

Dogs, cats and other pets can suffer from this condition. Middle-aged dogs aged seven to nine, and overweight pets are most affected. Neutered male and female dogs are less likely to suffer from diabetes. For example, nearly 70 percent of diabetic dogs are un-neutered females – which is another good reason to get your pets neutered.

Diabetes is the result of the body’s inability to control glucose (sugar) levels in the blood stream. In most early cases, the pet may be bright and alert but may drink, eat, lose weight and urinate more than usual. As the problem progresses, the affected pet becomes depressed with a decreased appetite. They may be sick and will become dehydrated.

If left untreated, diabetes can result in kidney failure and coma, and death from dehydration.

There is currently no cure for diabetes, but it can be managed with a strict dietary and exercise regime and daily injections of insulin. When diabetes is diagnosed, the level of therapy will be matched to the severity of the condition, but dietary management is an essential component.

The diet for most diabetic dogs should contain the correct balance of protein, carbohydrate, fat and fibre. Commercial diets specifically for diabetics are often preferable. A diabetic dog shouldn’t be given any extra treats unless your vet agrees.

Dietary management is also important in diabetic cats and owners should avoid semi-moist and jelly coated cat foods, which are high in sugar. Feeding a high fibre diet is ideal, but the calorific value of the diet has to be monitored closely to avoid the cat gaining weight.

Although the majority of diabetic cats will initially need insulin injections, weight reduction is important in obese diabetic cats, and can result in a decreased amount of insulin. It may occasionally result in the diabetic cat having no need for insulin injections at all.

Most diabetes patients will still need a daily or twice daily dose of insulin, which owners can administer quite easily at home. Once a treatment programme has been established for a pet, the vet or practice nurse will provide an owner with a diet plan and all the equipment they will need to care for their pet at home.

A typical pet diabetes kit will usually include detailed instructions and/or record card, testing strips (which change colour when dipped in a urine sample), disposable insulin syringes with very fine needles, and insulin to cover a daily doses until it is time for the next check-up. The veterinary practice will always coach an owner on giving the injections until they are satisfied they are competent, so there is nothing to worry about.

The management of diabetes requires the owner and vet to work closely together, so ask as many questions as you like until you are sure in your own mind about what is expected of you as the pet’s owner.

The Dogs Fouling of Land Act 1996 has been repealed but existing designations remain in force until any dog control order is made on the same land.

Dog Control Orders can be made to control:

• Dog fouling
• Restriction of dogs from certain land
• Areas where dogs have to be kept on a lead
• Areas where dogs have to kept on a lead when instructed
• Restrictions on multiple dog walking

Unlike Dog Byelaws, Control Orders can be made at a local level by a local authority or a parish council. Breach of a control order can attract a maximum fine of level 3 on that standard scale (currently £1000).

Alternatively, the opportunity to pay a fixed penalty may be offered in place of prosecution. Prior to a control order being made a period of local consultation and notices in local press is required.

For guidance on making a dog control see

• Dog Control Orders (180 KB)

Dog Control Order regulations:

• The Dog Control Orders (Procedures) Regulations 2006 (on OPSI website)
• The Dog Control Orders (Prescribed Offences and Penalties, etc.) Regulations 2006 (on OPSI website)

Dog byelaws

Dog byelaws are local laws which apply to land designated by local authorities, parish, town and community councils.

These byelaws can require people to keep their dog on a lead, require people to keep their dog on a lead if directed to do so, require people to clear up after their dogs, ban dogs from beaches and ban dogs completely.

Details of existing dog byelaws in your area can be requested from your local authority.

Kindly submitted by Julie Davies of Puddle Paws

Before you start.
When your dog is running about enjoying himself and you call him he has to do several things.
o He must stop his current activity no matter how interesting it is.
o He must turn in your direction and look for you.
o He must make the decision to come to you rather than do anything else.
You need to understand that this is going to be a big and difficult thing for a puppy to do and also for a dog that’s never been trained. You won’t get perfection all at once and you need to have patience and plenty of treats. If your dog likes squeaky toys then all the better. These are ideal for getting a dog’s attention when it is some distance away from you.

Let’s do the first lesson
If your dog doesn’t come when called then you must start training in a safe place. The garden is a good idea or if it’s raining you can start the training indoors. All you need to do the first time is show your dog a titbit, move backwards a little way and encourage him to come to you. Give him a titbit and praise and do it again. Once he’s got the idea that coming to you is a good thing you can start to say “Fido come” in an encouraging voice and give praise and reward when he comes to you. Don’t expect him to come from any great distance at this early stage.

Moving On to the next stage.
The trick with starting the recall is to watch your dog and choose a time to call when the dog is most likely to come. If the dog is hell bent on chasing next door’s cat you are unlikely to succeed by calling his name when he’s in full chase. If you do try and recall him he’ll simply ignore you and he’ll learn that he doesn’t have to come to you when you use his name and say “Come.”

When your dog is coming to you from a short distance then you can start to practice the recall while he’s ambling about in the garden. All you need to do is to wait until the dog has settled down a bit and is facing in your direction if possible. Then squeak the toy to get his attention. If the dog looks up at you then you can call his name and say “Come.” Be encouraging and as soon as the dog reaches you touch his collar or get hold of it. At the same time give a titbit and praise “What a good dog.” Then let go of the collar and let the dog wander off again. Repeat this a few times and then have a game. You can do this indoors as well from time to time just to reinforce the lesson.

Well done. Your dog is learning to come to you already and he’s mastering the third item in our list which is to come to you rather than do something else.

Let’s take it further.
When you’re sure that your dog understands what you mean by “Fido come” you can take the training a bit further. Once again you can use the garden for training, but this time you’re going to call your dog when he’s facing away from you. Use the squeaky toy to get his attention and call him. Don’t forget to sound encouraging and have some really tasty titbits. Each time your dog responds you must touch the collar or get hold of it as well as giving the praise and the titbit. This is a vital part of training the recall and yet very few trainers seem to include this in their lesson. The reason it’s so important is that some dogs will come beautifully to call and then run off again before you can get hold of the collar.

If you’re having trouble getting your dog to come to you, you can use a lead. Get the dog to face you on the lead and then run backwards. Call the dog’s name “Fido come,” and praise and reward.
Alternatively you can make a complete fool of yourself by making a high pitched squeaking noise and running in the opposite direction. Not many dogs can resist this and sooner or later they will want to join in the game.
Out in the park.
When you are confident that your dog is coming to you and knows what you want it’s time to try it in an open space away from home. You will need a long lead to start with so that you can practice your recalls in complete safety. Only when you are confident that your dog is not going to run off and disappear can you let him off the lead in a public place.
Let the dog have a run round on the long lead and let him get all his sniffing done. Once he’s settled down a bit call him in to you. Use the long lead if necessary and use the running backwards technique. Give a titbit and praise as soon as he comes to you and don’t forget to get hold of the collar.
Sooner or later the time will come when you feel it’s safe to let your dog off the lead. A lot of dogs race away when the lead is unclipped but usually they stay within calling distance and will keep an eye on you to make sure you haven’t disappeared. You can practice your recalls when your dog has finished the initial race around and has had a good old sniff. If he doesn’t come straight away run in the opposite direction and use a high silly voice to get his attention. When he comes back don’t grab him and put him on the lead but do catch hold of the collar and give your praise and reward. Let him go again and repeat the recall from time to time.
One thing to remember is that you should NEVER, NEVER scold your dog if he’s been tardy in coming to you but has eventually responded to your call. If you are angry with him when he comes to you he’ll be even less inclined to come the next time as he’ll be expecting to be told off.

If your dog is having a high old time with other dogs or is otherwise engaged then don’t try to recall if you think he won’t respond. You need to catch the moment when he looks at you or stops what he’s doing. You’re much more likely to get a recall and you won’t have given your dog the idea that it’s OK to ignore you.
Remember that teaching recall is very important as it can save lives if you ever need to recall in a potentially dangerous situation.

Dog Training Saves Lives

PDSA has embarked on a mission to encourage all dog owners to teach their dogs the basic commands of sit, heel, stay, come and drop. Why? Because it could save your dog’s life!

Dogs rely on us to let them know when they are behaving badly or are in danger, so PDSA is urging owners to start a training programme as soon as possible.

Signalling to a dog to leave or drop dangerous items such as a rough stick or glass bottle, could help to prevent serious injury. Glass bottles can break inside the mouth resulting in serious cuts, and sticks can break-up and become embedded deep in a dog’s mouth! Equally, if your dog accidentally slips his lead and darts off towards a busy road, the ‘come’ command could help prevent serious injury to your dog and the public!

To start owners on their way, PDSA has produced a free Dog Training leaflet, which offers guidance on the most useful commands and most effective training techniques.

Statistics from the Kennel Club’s Good Citizen Dog Scheme*, which encourages organisations to promote responsible dog ownership, show a considerable growth both in dog training courses being offered, and participants taking part over the past few years. Last year over 35,000 dogs were enrolled in training classes at various difficulty levels.

PDSA Senior Veterinary Surgeon, Elaine Pendlebury comments: “Sadly, I feel that there are still too many untrained dogs around! The benefits of a trained dog are considerable. Some dogs can easily become distracted by other dogs, traffic or people when out walking, so knowing that you have complete control should make your life, and that of your dog, much more happy.

“Training is also a great way of reinforcing the bond between an owner and their dog. With the lighter nights now upon us, more and more people are venturing out for long evening strolls with their dogs, which means good behaviour is very important.”

PDSA recommends using a combination of voice and hand signals and advises owners to use positive techniques when training their dog – rewarding them for good behaviour with treats or extra attention.

The Dog Training leaflet forms part of a larger range of Responsible Pet Care leaflets produced by PDSA. These leaflets cover a variety of pet care topics including, First Aid, Diet and Nutrition and Vaccinations. The leaflets are available from PDSA PetAid hospitals and charity shops nationwide. Further information can be obtained from www.pdsa.org.uk or by calling freephone 0800 917 2509

Advice Supplied by: RSPCA

Positive dog training can happen any time, all the time. You don’t need to get your dog ready in special training equipment. Your pet is usually ready whenever you are. It is recommended that you train in several 5 to 15-minute sessions, for a total of 30 to 45 minutes per day.

This is easier than it sounds. Every time you interact with your dog, you have a great opportunity to train him. By incorporating your practice sessions into your dog’s daily routine, he learns that responding to your behavior cues earns him rewards, it’s not just something he does when you have a leash in your hand.

Practice the ‘Wai’t exercise a few times whenever he goes outside or comes back in. Do some ‘Stay’ practice during walks. Reinforce ‘No Jumping’ when you come home from work. Before you know it, you will have easily exceeded your three to six sessions per day.

In any single training session, pick one or two exercises to concentrate on. Start with something that he is good at to get him tuned in to you. There’s nothing like success and rewards to get him excited about training. Then introduce something new or more challenging. At first, do enough repetitions so that he has an opportunity to figure out what you are asking him to do.

If he doesn’t seem to be getting it, you may need to do more shaping, by breaking the behavior down into smaller pieces and rewarding him more often for small bits of the desired goal behavior. For instance, if he won’t lie down, you may need to click and reward him at first just for looking toward the floor as you move your lure toward the ground.

Keep marking and rewarding as he goes lower and lower, until he is all the way down. If he quits playing the game with you, go back to the point where he was doing well and proceed more slowly, giving more clicks and rewards for smaller pieces of the goal behavior. If you sense that either or both of you are getting frustrated, it’s time for a break. End the training session on a positive note by giving him a treat or playing his favorite game.

Once he gets the hang of it, you can make the future practice sessions for that particular behavior shorter to prevent him from getting bored. How long you train a particular behavior will depend on your dog’s personality and level of training. Some dogs will quit after three or four repetitions while other dogs have longer endurance.

Get to know your dog. If he gets bored after five reps, stop at three, while he is still fresh and enthusiastic. As long as you keep the training interesting for him, you will be able to gradually build up his stamina and attention span. Some dogs will happily repeat a behavior dozens of times because they are looking forward to earning the reward that goes with it. If you encourage this attitude, just performing the behavior itself can become the reward, because it has been so consistently associated with fun and play and other good stuff. When your dog understands and performs the behavior on cue reliably in different environments, then you no longer have to practice that behavior as often.

However we are keen to stress some important facts right from the outset in compliance with our own principles on ensuring dog owners are better informed on responsible dog ownership issues.

All dogs are individuals with individual personalities and as such any advice given in generic form should be treated as such. Written dog training advice is no substitute for the hands on experience that can be delivered by an appropriately experienced professional canine behaviour expert or dog trainer. Written advice is to be used as a reference for increasing your awareness of particular canine behaviour issues – no more, no less.

Aggression issues: Under no circumstances, ever, should aggression issues be dealt with by anything other than the direct advice of a professional. The first port of call for dealing with canine aggression is to see a vet in an effort to rule out any medical issues. Following that a hands on solution is required. Attempting remotely ‘cure’ an aggression issue is a non starter. Please, if you have a problem relating to aggression, see a professional without delay.

Types of training advice: They say there’s more than one way to skin a cat, perish the thought! But there is certainly many, many ways to successfully train a dog – there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way. Here at C-fidos we do not subscribe to any particular dog training ’style’ or school of thought other than the following principles:

1) Successful dog training strategies should be based on developing a happy, healthy, willing response from the dog.

2) Strategies that rely soley on fear or pain are rarely, if ever, successful in develpoing happy, healthy, willing responses – they produce ‘results’ but they will be inferior results and in many cases can lead to enhancing certain problems, not solving them.

3) It is in your and your dog’s interests to learn the basics about different styles of dog training, you can then be assured that you are choosing the best ’style’ of approach for your particular dog.

4) Do not be swayed to follow a strategy that you are not personally comfortable with. As stated at the outset, there are many, many different approaches to dog training – you need to be happy and comfortable with the route you decide to take with your dog. Learn, listen, observe, research – take on board what you can from all sources but NEVER feel pressured in to following one approach over another unless you are comfortable that it is right for you and your dog.

5) Be aware of this fact: There are no standardised ’standard marks’ for professional dog trainers. There are various qualifications, various dog training organisations, various dog training companies and various accreditations. It does NOT make one trainer ’superior’ to another if they happen to be associated with one organisation, have no qualifications or a bag full! Picking a dog trainer or picking someone to give you dog training advice is not quite the same as picking a plumber. There are some basics which can help you, you should firstly be comfortable with the person you’re working with. You should ask them to give you references from other dog owners whom they have helped. You should ask them to tell you about their training philosophies and preferred methods and then decide whether these philosophies appeal to you and the way in which you wish to develop your dog’s behaviour. You should not discount an experienced trainer who happens to have no qualifications and no professional affiliations any more than you should discount a young, newly qualified, professionally affiliated trainer – it’s all about picking the people who you like, are comfortable with and who can deliver the results you are seeking in accordance with the first principle stated in our list.

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If you are a dog behaviour expert, dog trainer or simply a dog owner with a tip – feel free to submit your dog training advice to C-fidos.

We must stress we may not include your advice if we believe it has the capacity to be misintrepreted leading to potential harm to the dog (or owner).

Any advice that runs on the site will be vetted prior to publication and must comply with the principles as outlined above. Whilst we will gladly publish sound, sensible, practical advice here and whilst we will not be biased toward a particular dog training style, company, individual, training organisation or method, any advice published must always be accepted in the spirit in which it is provided i.e as a reference point, as a guide, as something which may or may not be able to help. It is not a cure all or a set-in-stone method by which to ‘fix’ problems and whether it comes from an ‘ordinary’ dog owner or an eminent professional, it is merely a supplement to – not a replacement for – hands on, individually tailored practical advice for a specific dog.

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